79. At the top of the Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes

Guatemala is above all a mountainous country
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- Guatemala is a mountainous country, except along coasts there are some plains. There are thirty volcanoes in the country, three of them are considered as active! I climbed two of them: the Pacaya volcano and the famous “volcan de Fuego”, which means volcano of fire. Also I have hiked two of the highest elevated volcanoes of the country: the Santa Maria volcano, near Xela, and the Acatenango volcano, which leads safely to the Fuego volcano.
The Acatenango volcano
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- No doubt I would say the worthiest volcano of the country is the Acatenango volcano. Its name comes from the city Acatenango whose name means "surrounded by reeds". It is located closeby to the Fuego volcano, the hyperactive one that rejects lava every day. Acatenango is climbed by hundreds of tourists a day, willing to admire an impressive eruption of Fuego on top of the other volcano.
- My ascent of this volcano is planned for a long time, it is strongly recommended by every traveler I met. I desired to try the adventure without a guided group. In the city of Antigua, I found Louis, an Australian guy I met on the Ometepe island in Nicaragua, found again in Suchitoto in El Salvador. This time I convinced him to share an adventure with me. Moreover he had the one tent that I need to achieve this adventure!
- A word on the material: it is very cold on the Acatenango volcano. Because it rises to 3976 meters above sea level, the thermometer stands close to the degree zeros at night. In addition, icy winds are constantly blowing at the top. One day, reckless Guatemalans were found dead at the top, of course hypothermia. Hikers have to equip themselves accordingly.
- That's why I added to my backpack one sweater, one double-layered coat, warm pants, a hat and a pair of gloves.
The eruption of January 31st, 2018
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- That night, I could not sleep. A full moon night, where I read my whole book to try to fall asleep. Why didn’t I go out on the rooftop of our hostel in Antigua?
- The volcano was expelling lava flows up to five hundred meters above the crater. In the early morning, I discovered the spectacle of intense smoke and many released by the volcano.
The hazards at the start - 02/02/2018
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- We choose a departure two days later. Thirty minutes before the start, Louis warns me: his Australian friend Jarred is motivated to complete our team of climbers. Therefore, we go by local buses to the Aprode agency located in San Jose Calderas to rent two sleeping bags and a tent for three people if possible. No problem! For twenty-five quetzals (less than five euros) we get them and the equipment is already at the top! We can leave our surplus of unnecessary stuff there for the day and come back the next day: it's perfect. The vice president of the association Ovidio leads us by car to the start and we start the ascending!
Brutal departure - 2422 meters
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- From the first steps, we feel the slope very steep. Louis and Jarred, who have already made the climb several months before, warn me that the slope is very strong at the beginning and will remain important until the end of the trek.
- We cross a few fields, we are following few groups that we pass at the entrance to the park - entry that we do not figure out that we need to pay, swept alone by our own momentum.
The scenery turns into a jungle
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- We cross in a second time a tropical vegetation.
The view of the volcan de Agua
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- The view emerges and we can see the valley of Antigua and the third volcanic immensity of the sector: the “volcan de Agua” (the volcano of water). Named as opposed to the volcano of Fire, it culminates at 3760 meters as its opposite and has a lake located in its crater.
Arrival and discovery of the camp - 3600 meters
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- We arrive at the summit after three hours of walking and half an hour of lunch break. There are a dozen scattered camps and even more paths connecting them. This hodgepodge makes tracking difficult. We are searching at first where the camp of Aprode can be.
Rest at camp
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- We are on the right track, the camp is just down the trail. In fact, it is strategically very well located: facing the Fuego volcano. We can rest, while waiting for the group and enjoy the view...
The Fuego through an unobstructed view
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- Almost the same picture, five minutes later!
Negotiation around the fire
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- Louis gave me an idea before the trek: to climb to the top of Fuego. The Acatenango and Fuego volcanoes belong to the same volcanic complex named La Horqueta. There is a pass between the two volcanoes at an altitude around 3500 meters. To reach the summit of Fuego, we just need to go down and go up one hundred meters.
- The idea has sprouted in my head and I am motivated to climb at any cost. My Australian companions want to accompany me but only with guides. The guides want to show the way (and even make a discount to us) only if we motivate other tourists.
- It is four o'clock. The group of twenty-seven people arrives. People begin to settle. Some take a hot chocolate, some photograph the Fuego volcano, others have a rest. It is half-past four. Aprode guides show us where our tent is, tucked within the row of ten tents in the Aprode camp.
- My fatigue falls away and I refuse to miss the opportunity to get to the top of an active volcano. Fifteen minutes later, I run around the tents and motivate other adventurers. We are eight! I go to see if the guides are ready, then our expedition leaves the camp!
Crater lens
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- The goal is to go behind the strip of clouds that separates this photo in two!
The break between the two volcanoes
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- The climb seems easier than the path to the camp. Let's enjoy the break and listen to the Guatemalan hymn sung by the guide:
- https://youtu.be/wCmNIt4cr6s
At the crater of Fuego volcano - 3596 meters
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- We will not go further! Indeed, wind squalls make walking uncomfortable at the top. In addition, we are less than a kilometer from the crater, where the lava expels.
- Now we are waiting for the show! Will the volcano eject huge columns of fire tonight? Or has he ejected everything the day before?
- The cloud parade...
Sunset
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- Unlike the resting hikers at camp, we witness a wonderful sunset.
- However, it does not satisfy everyone's impatience. We want an eruption!
The mist at the top of Fuego
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- But it's just the night that is coming. The Fuego volcano is hidden by its thick cloak of clouds. It is very cold and despite more than an hour and a half of waiting, the volcano has nothing for us tonight. We return to camp late. It took an hour fifteen to go to the volcano, and an hour and a half to go back.
Night at camp
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- As I knew before, it's very cold on the Acatenango. I sleep wearing a T-shirt, fleece, and sweater in my sleeping bag, which is resistant to temperatures around zero degrees. We are also lucky to be three to warm this tent. In addition, we are sheltered from the wind by the two tents around us.
- I usually like adventures without a guide, but I must admit that the hospitality and friendliness of the Aprode agency made my experience much more comfortable. I highly recommend this agency!
A dawn sky on the Acatenango
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- Around four o'clock in the morning, the guides begin to wake us up. Those who want to watch the sunrise at the top of the Acatenango must wake up. I leave my tentmates and leave with the group around five o'clock. It takes us an hour to very slowly follow other groups to reach the crater.
- I have the feeling that the group will not go after the expedition. I use a big slowdown in a zig to go straight towards the crater, then follow the slope towards the summit. Dawn begins to light the sky with its pink color. This gradient of colors is beautiful ... when the clouds let us observe it. I am lucky to be able to have a clear view of the horizon. I stay for about ten minutes, resisting the wind and taking full advantage of the view.
- I finally come down and find a Hungarian and a Japanese adventurer from my group, followed by the guide. Because our group has already turned back, this last guide brings the three lost sheep that we are.
Sunrise on the Acatenango
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- We set off for a descent much faster than the climb. Indeed, we are four hikers in shape, without a group to slow us. In addition, the descent is faster in the scree.
- Half past six, that's the long-awaited moment! Sheltered on the side so protected from the wind, we are speechless whenever we can see the golden star.
The Fuego volcano in the early morning
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- He appears to us, too!
When the Fuego volcano wakes up
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- We can observe some clouds of gray smoke escaping from the volcano! Nothing great, but it's already that!
Back to camp
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- One last photo before leaving the tent!
Downhill run
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- We choose to accelerate the pace on the descent to be able to return sooner. We are going to run on some paths. In less than two hours, it was folded!
Aprode
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- We hitchhiked back to San Jose Calderas to pick up our belongings. The members started by offering us a hot drink (a hot rice pudding) and pastries. During our break, Vice President Ovidio told us the story of Aprode.
- Initially, Aprode's members were illegal workers on a farm in the United States. In 2008, they were deported and had to return to their native country. Nevertheless, no jobs were waiting for them. Some returned to work on the family farm, but living conditions quickly deteriorated: they were new mouths to feed, and there was no one left to bring back remesas (money acquired in the United States). Then a young man from the village, who had just graduated as a guide, gave them an opportunity to create a guide agency for the popular climb of the Acatenango volcano. Thus, Aprode was born. All the families contribute. They wash sleeping bags, take care of horses or mules, get supplies for the treks, prepare meals, or elaborate on their last project: to build rooms to welcome the hikers on the eve of departure. They have been working on this new project for a few months now.
- Aprode accepts volunteers. In exchange for room and food, travelers can help the village members or serve as translators in the expeditions (English is only mastered by six guides.)
- Last good point for them: the price. For a tour booked directly by them, they ask for 150 quetzals (16.5 €), that is to say half the price of the agencies of Antigua. The price of the minibus does not justify this difference. (Around 5€)
- I never thought of writing a paragraph to recommend an agency. Here is the phone / Whatsapp of Evin: +502 4708 2809
Two volcanoes for a single ascent
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- I admit that the way to the summit is not easy and requires a good effort .. Nevertheless it is possible to reach the summits of the two volcanoes by putting his own. I clearly recommend that you bring enough clothing to avoid the cold, a good camera and the MAPS.ME application. One last element is a good physical shape, which is easily maintained during a trip. And if you have a problem, do not hesitate to visit Aprode!
- And here is the playlist of the eruption of Fuego volcano:
- https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLpkaK0yJ22OzyADdQT_VYO8XUbBN--KV2

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